Wintours Leap

Wintours Leap

General

The Wye valley climbing lies between the towns of Monmouth to the North and Chepstow to the South. It is about 3½ hrs drive from Ipswich so it's a viable alternative to the Peak District for a weekend

Activities

Climbing

A good selection of trad climbing exists across all the grades up to mid Es as well as sport climbing at mainly 6s and above. There's everything from steep cracks to scary, delicate slabs. Almost all the rock in the area is limestone. The majority (but by no means all) of the routes are in the VS-E3 range.

For those operating below VS the best crag is Symonds Yat, described by UKC as 'A characterful and adventurous crag'. With over 400 routes there is something for everyone there, but it can be a bit polished. Running a close second for route choice but with a much better view over the river, Wintours Leap is another good venue with an excellent range of mainly multipitch routes.

Shorn Cliff is a club favourite with those operating in the VS-E2 range as is the slightly smaller crag of Wyndcliff. Both crags have a few routes below VS too.

If you're into steep and strenuous sport routes, Ban y Gor is the place to go to.

Places To Stay

The IMC usually stays at Cherry Orchard Farm in the village of Newland. Cold water, a couple of loos and just 1 shower mean this site is fairly basic. Other campsites in the area are Doward Park or Rushmere Farm

Eating & Drinking

Half a mile from Cherry Orchard Farm is the Ostrich Inn, a great little olde-worlde pub which serves good beer and excellent (if quite expensive) food. Not a terribly vegetarian-friendly menu though.

Weather

See the Met Office site

Shopping

There are no climbing shops in the immediate area