In the past some people have told me they fancy having a go at winter climbing, maybe a winter gully, mixed route, or even some ice!!!, instead of following the usual walking routes to the top of a mountain. They all know that grade one is the easiest but how easy is it? so I'll try to explain.
Winter climbing is a pretty vague sport in terms of grading. The trouble is the weather and snow conditions can easily change the grade of a route from easy to something resembling a day on K2 in a blizzard. Also, a route will become easier if it has been climbed recently. All you need do is plonk your boots into the frozen footsteps of those who've been before you. Although a grading system can't hope to be accurate, one does exist. So to describe what is required by any grade is no easy task so here goes.
Grade I: straight forward snow climbs, containing no ice pitches; large cornices may exist (Beginners)
Grade II: these gullies contain minor ice pitches, usually one big one and several smaller ones, and may have high angled snow with difficult cornice exits (Intermediate climbers)
Grade III: less straightforward climbs which may contain long stretches of ice and snow to a high angle as well as prolonged difficulties on rocky ridges (Experienced climbers)
Grade IV: vertical ice and sustained winter climbs, heroic stuff (Very highly experienced climbers)
Grade V: a climb of grade IV difficulty but much longer and more sustained, serious climbs often with poorly protected sections, really scary (Complete Nutters only)
Grade VI: and above. Everything that doesn't fit into the previous grades is given a grade VI, to VII at the moment. Some of these routes have only a thin cover of ice so you'll need to jam your ice axe into rock cracks, do laybacks with ice axe's and stand your crampon spikes or thin rock flakes! (Nutters out to prove something)
All these grades are given to routes under average conditions. Any change from these average conditions will greatly affect the grade. Avalanche risk in particular can affect a route, but a spot or two of rain, a freshening wind, a sudden rise in temperature or just more or less snow than usual really pokes an ice screw into the grading system. A rope, crampons, ice axe, climbing helmet, climbing protection, map and compass are just some of the items required to climb winter gullies, see the winter kit list.
To learn these skills and a profusion of other winter climbing techniques you should gain instruction from a highly qualified outdoor bod wearing a fleece jacket who can not only unwrap a KitKat while wearing a pair of frozen mitts but can also use a rope to belay at the same time.
I hope all this doesn't put you off!
The Ice Axeman
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